Natural ingredients can be toxic too

Formulations from Natural Sources: Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union

Natural cosmetics continue to generate interest as consumers are increasingly drawn to products perceived as more sustainable, environmentally friendly and safe. It's easy to assume that something derived from nature must be good for you, but it is essential to understand that natural does not automatically equal safe. Just like ingredients created in a lab, natural ingredients need to be carefully tested to ensure they won't cause any harm. This review discusses the concerns and testing requirements in relation to the safety of natural cosmetic ingredients within the European Union regulatory framework.

Ingredient contamination is a concern in both natural and synthetic materials. Harmful bacteria and fungi can find their way into natural ingredients during growing, harvesting and processing. These microbes can also shorten the shelf life of a product, making it go bad more quickly. Natural ingredients can also contain heavy metals like lead and mercury, which are harmful to human health. These heavy metals can contaminate plants if grown in polluted soil or if the equipment used to process the ingredients isn't clean.

Another concern with natural ingredients is the presence of allergens. These can cause skin reactions like redness, itching and even more severe responses in certain people. Some common essential oils like lavender, tea tree, and peppermint are known to contain allergens. In the EU, certain allergens are restricted and can only be allowed in products at very low concentrations. If they can't be removed, the product must be labelled to warn consumers about the potential for allergic reactions.

To address these concerns, natural ingredients must be screened for microbial and chemical contaminants, as well as naturally occurring allergens. Like synthetic ingredients, natural ingredients must also undergo toxicological evaluations considering local effects, such as skin sensitization and irritation, and systemic effects, like repeated dose toxicity and mutagenicity.

One of the major challenges with testing the safety of natural ingredients is their complexity. Unlike a single synthetic ingredient made in a controlled laboratory setting, a natural ingredient like a plant extract can contain hundreds or even thousands of different compounds. This makes it much more difficult to analyze exactly what is in each ingredient batch and how it might affect people. The composition of a natural ingredient can also vary depending on factors like the time of year it was harvested and the climate where it was grown.

The EU regulation requires the same safety reporting for all cosmetic ingredients, regardless of whether they are natural or synthetic. Scientists are focusing on developing and validating new testing methods, which will play a crucial role in ensuring that consumers can trust the safety and quality of all cosmetic ingredients and formulations.

For further information read the full paper.